“In 2013, ‘Sous le signe du lion’ paid tribute to the city’s emblems by celebrating one of its major symbols, the lion, which was also Gabrielle Chanel’s astrological sign,” Leguéreau explains. This advertisement has not loaded yet, but your article continues below. But while the destination is the same, Leguéreau assures that the designs represent a very different interpretation of the multi-island city. The new release marks the second time the house has used the Italian city as an inspiration for one of its high-jewelry collections. “The ‘Serenissima’ allowed her to be reborn,” Leguéreau says. The city, Leguéreau says, provided Chanel with a point of escape, allowing her to be “carried away” by its canals, Byzantine architecture and atmosphere. The French fashion house’s founder first visited the Italian city in 1920, following the death of her “great love” Arthur (Boy) Capel in an automobile accident. “Gabrielle Chanel only appears implicitly.” “It was vital that each piece of jewelry should refer to one or more Venetian elements, that the link should be immediate,” Leguéreau says. Patrice Leguéreau, director of the CHANEL Jewelry Creation Studio. The collection, Leguéreau says, highlights the “soul” of the city. Afterward, her models brought her bouquets of wheat, now referenced by the yellow and white gold and diamonds in the "Blé Gabrielle" ("Gabrielle Wheat") pieces.“This idea of an imaginary journey does indeed coincide very well with the current context.”ĭebuted this past week in Paris during Haute Couture week, the exquisite assemblage of 70 high-jewelry pieces is more than a nod to one of Gabrielle Chanel’s favourite destinations, but rather a dedication to the city’s many iconic elements. It's a nod to Chanel's 1967 show in Moscow, which took place without her. The wheat stalk, a symbolic Russian theme, became one of Chanel's favorite motifs. Russian folkwear's embroidered "rubakha" shirts influenced Gabrielle Chanel's fashion, as did Byzantine scarves and embroidery, and these are also now referenced in this special collection. It now plays a special role, appearing with octagons or camellias on a ring or necklace. The double-headed eagle, a symbol of Imperial Russia, tops the sculpted frame of a mirror in the original Chanel boutique on the rue Cambon. The collection references many Russian inspirations which enriched Gabrielle Chanel's life and creativity. Most are set with diamonds and cultured pearls, and some, like the Folklore ensemble, with blue and pink sapphires, mandarine and tsavorite garnets, reference the festive colors of the Ballets Russes, for which Chanel designed costumes.Įagles, peasant shirts, and Russian motifs It includes necklaces, bracelets, rings, earrings, brooches, watches, and hair ornaments. This heritage is today celebrated through this new collection of 63 fine jewelry pieces touching on both sobriety and exuberance. Misia Sert, one of Gabrielle's closest friends, as well as Igor Stravinsky, Sergei Diaghilev, Léonide Massine, Serge Lifar, and Grand Duchess Maria Pavlovna, nourished her fascination with Russia, influencing her fashion designs. Ernest Beaux, perfumer to the court of the Tsars, became the creator of N★. Dreams, because the designer never actually set foot in the country. Memories, because Chanel met many Russian artists who introduced her to the splendors of Imperial Russia. This experience marked the entry of new cultural and artistic influences for Gabrielle Chanel, echoed today in this new jewelry collection touching on her dreams and memories. The designer and couturier began a short-lived but passionate affair with Grand Duke Dmitri Pavlovich, cousin of Tsar Nicholas II, who was at the time exiled in France. Russia became a part of Gabrielle Chanel's life from 1910, and in 1920 its influence became even more significant in her life. The 63-piece collection was conceived in honor of the numerous Russian influences which enriched Gabrielle Chanel's life, creativity, and imagination in the early 20th century. Patrice Leguéreau, director of Chanel's jewelry design studio, presented "Le Paris Russe de Chanel" ("Chanel's Russian Paris") during Paris's haute couture week at the beginning of July.
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